Mljet Island, Croatia: The Only Guide You Need

In addition, there are as many as eight gravel trails and one asphalt trail that are available to visitors who prefer to explore the park by bike.

Mljet Croatia

Mljet has long been one of Croatia’s most alluring islands; a verdant escape home to unspoiled nature, surprising history, rustic villages, picturesque beaches, and an air of tranquility unrivaled in Dalmatia. Yet somehow, this paradisical island remains largely off-the-beaten-path, sharing its charms only with the select few who venture to its shores. Tasteful Croatian Journeys invites you to delve deeper and discover Mljet’s secrets. Our Luxury Travel Designers have teamed up with local guide Michelle Ramonita Rodriguez Stražičić to explore Mljet’s unique legends, landscape, and culture. Together, we’ve put together this insider’s guide to what to see, do, and eat on Croatia’s greenest island.

About the Island of Mljet

Located in southern Dalmatia, between the coastal city of Dubrovnik and the island of Korčula, Mljet is the eighth largest Island in Croatia. It is nicknamed the “Green Island” due to the rich forest of Alepski Bor (Aleppo Pine) that extends from the sea’s bed to the highest point of the island’s surface. The Aleppo Pine was brought to Mljet from Alepa (Israel) before the time of Christ. The sap of the trees produces an aroma that is hypnotic, especially for first time visitors. It is a perfume which scents the air across the island.

Mljet’s main attraction is its National Park, which occupies the western part of the island. Here, visitors will find pristine natural beauty; untouched and protected. In the center of the park lie two enchanting cerulean saltwater lakes, Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake). In the middle of the large lake lies the small Isle of Saint Mary, home to a 12th-century Benedictine monastery. Around the lakes, a blanket of thick forest stretches across the island interrupted only by olive groves, vineyards, and a handful of tranquil settlements.

Just off the coast, numerous shipwrecks and sunken Greek amphora hint at the island’s history. It is said to be Mljet, not Malta, which is the island “Melita” on which Saint Paul was shipwrecked. Similarly, it is Mljet, not Gozo (off the coast of Malta), which claims to be the mythical island of Ogygia described in Homer’s Odyssey. On the southern shore of the island, not far from Babino Polje, the island’s largest settlement, travelers can visit the limestone cave believed to be where Odysseus drifted after his shipwreck. There, he came across the beautiful nymph Calypso, who held him captive for seven years until his release was ordered by Zeus.

Exploring Mljet National Park

Set out for the western side of the island!

Independent travelers will find that Mljet is well connected to the mainland and other islands by public ferry and catamaran, making it an ideal single day excursion from both Dubrovnik and Korčula. Tasteful Croatian Journeys can also arrange private yacht and speedboat excursions for those seeking added comfort or flexibility.

The recommended ports of arrival for those planning to visit the national park are Pomena or Polače. During the summer, the small fishing village of Pomena functions as the island’s main city, with plenty of waterfront restaurants serving tasty local cuisine. It is also home to the island’s longest-established hotel, the Hotel Odisej, a comfortable three-star property which is part of the Adriatic Luxury Hotels collection.

The village of Pomena, Roman ruins in Polače, and the Krilo public catamaran.

Two miles away, the ancient trading port of Polače still holds remnants of the past, including the ruins of a Roman palace which date back to around the 5 th century. Polače was known to be the safest port on the eastern side of the Adriatic, featuring a large bay sheltered by four small islets. Today the village is home to just over one hundred residents and has several restaurants and cafés.

Either village serves as an ideal starting point from which to explore Mljet National Park independently, by foot, bike, or kayak. Your Tasteful Croatian Journeys concierge is available to arrange bike, canoe, and kayak rentals. Together with Michelle, we can also arrange organized tours to explore the island’s cultural sights, such as the Odysseus Cave. As a resident of the island and professional in the hospitality industry, Michelle is able to put her local network and resources to work to facilitate the needs and wishes of our travelers.

When arriving, visitors must keep in mind that a third of the Island is protected territory and purchasing National Park entrance tickets is a mandatory step of the journey. As there is no official entrance to the park, tickets can be purchased from kiosks located in both Pomena and Polače, or in advance from the national park’s online web shop. The Kiosks also offer park maps and boat timetables.

The entrance tickets to the National Park include services for your entire stay on the Island, whether that is for one day or multiple days. Prices can be found above, listed in local currency (Kuna).

Included in the entrance ticket are:

The transfer from Pristanište (Mljet National Park Headquarters) to the village of Polače (home to an Ancient Basilica and Roman Palace).
One boat ride to the Island of Saint Mary and back.

Veliko and Malo Jezero (Big and Little Lake). The lakes are connected to one another by a small channel and the Big Lake is connected to the sea by a larger channel.

Once you’ve got your tickets, begin making your way toward the park’s main attraction, the saltwater lakes, Veliko and Malo Jezero (Big and Small Lake). There are lovely wooded trails leading to the lakes, and walking paths which encircle them. However, travelers with mobility issues should be aware of the moderate incline and occasional steps encountered.

Both lakes are home to many curiosities. The island is of volcanic origin, and the lakes were formed more than 10,000 years ago. Although the lakes link to each other through a small channel, and to the sea by a larger channel, they have a unique ecosystem all their own. In fact, a special species of jellyfish (part of the Aurelia genus) was found to be living in the lakes. The species is more than 24 million years old and cannot be found anywhere else in the world. However, travelers needn’t worry as it is harmless to humans. In addition, the Big Lake is home to the largest recorded bushy coral reef (Cladocora caespitosa) in the world. The bushy coral, also known as Mediterranean pillow coral, provides a place for fish and crab spawn to hide, protected from the current. Many species of sea life rely on the natural rotation of water in and out of the lakes. This, coupled with the fact that the lakes are often several degrees warmer than the sea, make them a wonderful place to swim and snorkel.

The route segments are:

Pomena – Goveđari
Goveđari – Blato
Blato – Rogovići – Babino Polje
Babino Polje – Veliki Grad – Sobra

In addition, there are as many as eight gravel trails and one asphalt trail that are available to visitors who prefer to explore the park by bike.

Mljet Beyond the Park

To get the full Mljet experience, venture beyond the national park to the eastern part of the island, where a smattering of quiet villages and pristine beaches beckon travelers to explore. A single two-lane road runs the length of the island, connecting the settlements which house the island’s population of roughly 1000. In some ways, a trip to Mljet is like a trip back in time. Nature and island life exist in harmony, the people living off the land and sea.

At one point, the island was overrun by poisonous snakes, but in 1910, while under the rule of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, small Indian mongooses were introduced which effectively wiped out the snake population.

On the south side of the island is the cave where Odysseus is said to have been shipwrecked and held captive by Nymph Calypso. The cave can be reached by a somewhat challenging hike from Babino Polje, the island’s largest settlement and administrative center, followed by a short swim. It can also be reached much more comfortably by small boat. A private boat excursion to the Odysseus Cave can be arranged by Tasteful Croatian Journeys. Michelle recommends visiting the cave just around noon because of the beautiful spectrum of colors created when sunlight floods the cave, making it feel as though Calypso has returned. After seeing the cave, it is only natural to wonder if Odysseus was truly trapped for seven years, or simply so struck by beauty that he decided to stay.

Mljet is also home to some of southern Dalmatia’s most beautiful sandy beaches. In fact, the village of Saplunara, at the far southeastern end of the island, takes its name from the Latin word sabalum meaning sand. Just beside the settlement, two sandy beaches, a larger and smaller one, can be found in a tranquil pine-rimmed cove. Just a short walk away, another stunning sandy beach, Blace, serves as an isolated oasis for travelers seeking serenity and relaxation.

Traditional Dalmatian dishes at MS Restaurant and Bar

Where to Eat on the Island of Mljet

Finally, before leaving Mljet, be sure to indulge in a traditional Dalmatian meal. The cuisine of Mljet is a reflection of the islands’ resources and centers around the fresh ingredients grown or sourced from the land and sea. Fresh fish, octopus, and shellfish, local olive oil, wild herbs, and goat’s cheese are all staples. Dishes range from simple grilled fish and meat to unique local specialties such as Mljetski Makaruli (a handmade local pasta topped with olive oil, goat cheese, thyme and garlic) and Zelena Menestra (a chunky soup made from collard greens, potatoes and pork).

“While on Mljet, whether on a bike ride around the lakes, visiting the monastery, rediscovering the basilica and roman palace, hiking through pioneer routes or adventuring out to the Odysseus Cave, remember that Islanders’ including myself know how to eat. Each and every village in the area of the national park gives their heart and soul to hospitality. What we catch is what we eat.” – Michelle Ramonita Rodriguez Stražičić

Here are some restaurants Michelle recommends around Mljet:

Konoba Antika

Location: Polače

Popular among sailors, this traditional waterfront restaurant serves up hearty local cuisine at reasonable prices. Order at least 3 hours in advance to try the octopus peka, a traditional dish slow-cooked on a hearth under a metal dome.

Restaurant Pomena

Location: Pomena

This family run restaurant with spacious outdoor terrace is conveniently located near the docking point of the public catamaran. The menu features a wide array of fresh, simply prepared fish dishes – ideal for seafood lovers!

MS Restaurant and Bar

Location: Saplunara

Located in the far eastern part of the island, near the beach and surrounded by pine trees, MS Restaurant offers plenty of atmosphere. The menu is comprised of a variety of meat and fish dishes prepared using both local and international culinary techniques.

Stermasi

Location: Saplunara

Situated on a hill overlooking the water on the eastern side of the island, Stermasi is well known as being one of Mljet’s best restaurants. The specialties here are seafood of all kinds, as well as goat. Their olive oil is homemade and can be purchased by the bottle.

Mljet Island, Croatia: The Only Guide You Need

Picking the best island in Croatia is close to impossible. Yet Mljet Island will be a favorite of many. We can’t choose that easily. With 3600 miles of seafront and more than 1100 islands and islets, it is hard to choose favorites in Croatia – and we still haven’t visited the majority of the islands.

But Mljet has a special place in our heart. If you like quiet places, wonderful nature and adventures, this green island should be on your Croatian bucket list. There’s only one major road here, and Mljet National Park covers about one third of the island. No giant hotels, no bustling cities, just a dozen small villages spread out in the greenery. It’s a tiny island, anyway, with a length of 37 kilometers (23 miles) and an average width of 3.2 kilometers (2 miles). But there are also plenty of hidden beaches and coves, olives and goat’s cheese, two unique saltwater lakes and breathtaking coastal scenery.

We recommend spending at least two days on Mljet Island, and this post is about the best things to do there.

luxury: Villa Mirosa B&B, Saplunara (beachfront property, with seasonal outdoor swimming pool and sun terrace)
mid-range: Hotel Odisej, Goveđari (great location, close to the beach of Pomena)
budget: Apartmani Popović (apartments), Babino Polje

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Is Mljet worth visiting?

The right question here would be: who would love Mljet the most? And the answer is: nature lovers. Hikers. Snorkelers. Anyone who longs for beauty and solitude in nature. Anyone who loves the countless shades of blue and green.

Because Mljet is incredibly green. Almost 90% of this tiny island is forest, with vibrant evergreen pines (called Aleppo pines). They’re among the most preserved forests of this type in the whole Mediterranean. What else for nature lovers? Everything else, actually. High cliffs on the shore, azure and turquoise bays, perfectly sandy beaches, caves, tons of small islets, tiny villages, two salt lakes… Wild, untouched, amazing nature everywhere.

The highlight: Mljet National Park

Mljet National Park covers the western area of the island, and it’s the most famous for its two salt lakes, but we found every inch of this land stunning. Hiking? Swimming? Snorkeling? Biking? Kayaking? Enjoy all of that.

Visit the salt lakes: Malo Jezero and Veliko Jezero

No one misses the salt lakes on Mljet, they’re often the reason to visit this island in the first place. Malo Jezero – Small Lake in English – and Veliko Jezero – Great Lake in English – are filled with seawater, and they’re connected to each other and the Adriatic Sea by narrow passages.

Malo Jezero, the smaller lake, was the one we liked more. It can’t be accessed by car, but there are walking trails from Veliko Jezero or from Pomena that give access to this lake. One of the best activities in the park is walking around the salt lakes, anyway. With countless shades of green, the smell of pine trees, the chirping sound of crickets, it’ll stimulate all your senses. There’s an easy path around both lakes, and it’s a 12 kilometers walk to fully complete the two loops. However, the loop around Malo Jezero is only 3.5 kilometers and can be done in an hour.

In either case, don’t forget about swimsuits. There are many lake access points along the trails where you can go in for a swim or just lie on the rocks to sunbathe. The more you walk, the more secluded swimming spots you can find. Most of the “beaches” are actually huge flat cliffs hidden under the trees, suitable for a family. We loved swimming in the lakes even more because their water is a bit warmer than the sea. And their color? No complaints there, it’s as beautifully green as everything on Mljet.

If you swim in Malo Jezero, rent a kayak to explore Veliko Jezero. Since these salt lakes are sheltered, kayaking here is easy even for beginners. Seeing the lakes from the water is a special experience, and you can paddle to tiny St. Mary’s Island on Veliko Jezero. Yes, island on the island. 🙂 There’s not much to do there (it’s really tiny), but it’s home to a 12 th -century former church and Benedictine monastery. Because what else would people do on cute islands other than building a monastery? (Think Lake Bled.)

You can also get to St. Mary’s Island by a small boat, they have a regular schedule in the summer season.

Explore hidden coves while hiking on the coast

We enjoyed the salt lakes, but Mljet National Park offers more. Our favorite place to swim on the whole island was in the hidden coves along the coastal trail in the national park. We got to enjoy azure waters and solitude, amazing vistas and awesome snorkeling spots.

Hiking this ~4 kilometers long coastal path, stopping to jump in, swim and snorkel from time to time became our favorite experience on Mljet Island. And to give you an idea of the solitude we got: we met only one other couple the whole day. (It depends on the time of your visit though. We visited Mljet in early September. July and August will certainly be more busy.)

This coastal trail truly deserves to be called as such, because you’ll enjoy coastal views at every step. However, the shoreline in Mljet National Park is rocky. You won’t find smooth beach entrances, you need to enter the water directly from the large rocks. And the water is immediately very deep. You don’t necessarily have to literally jump, but we strongly advise you to wear water shoes so that sharp rocks won’t hurt your feet as you find your way in. This made the experience more unique to us, but if it’s not your thing, or you’re with small kid(s), choose the salt lakes and sandy beaches (read on…).

Entrance fee and park access

You enter the national park through Pomena or Polace. Both are small villages, and you’ll purchase your ticket at the kiosks before entering the park. If you’re not staying on Mljet, your best chance is to sign up for an organized day tour to Mljet National Park, like this one from Dubrovnik. It’s a full day tour, and it’s worth it if that’s your only chance to see Mljet, however, it’s not comparable to the experience when you spend a few days on the island.

Best beaches on Mljet

You find fascinating beaches on Mljet – both inside and outside of Mljet National Park. If you like rocky beaches and hidden coves, the beaches by the salt lakes and the coves along the shoreline of the national park will be your favorite. But if you prefer sandy beaches, or you’re looking for family-friendly beaches, take a look at these:

Blace Beach

Some perfectly sandy beaches can be found on the eastern shore of Mljet. We know of three, and the least known is Blace Beach. Blace Bay is somewhat hidden, and you most likely need to walk about 20 minutes to reach it. There’s only a dirt road leading to the beach from the small village of Saplunara.

We parked our car in Saplunara at the end of the paved road, then followed that dirt road to Blace Bay. Our reward was a quiet, protected bay where the beach is sandy, and the water is shallow. Extremely shallow. It’s the perfect place for kids to play in the water, but it’s not suitable for swimming. You can have a romantic walk in the soft sand though – which is not something you can typically do on Croatian beaches.

There’s plenty of shade on Blace Beach, thanks to the surrounding pine forest. There’s no facilities though, so bring enough food and water.

Do you want to swim, too? Scramble on the rocks and get out of the protected bay. We found very deep water and crystal clear coves there, great for snorkeling, too.

Saplunara Beach

Then there’s Saplunara. We didn’t spend much time there, but we had a short swim on our way back from Blace Beach. Saplunara Beach consists of two small, sandy bays, and it’s located in the village that’s also called Saplunara. You’ll find a few restaurants, bars and small grocery stores nearby.

These two bays of Saplunara Beach were the most crowded ones we’ve encountered on Mljet, but it was mainly because of their small size. Obviously, all the families gather here.

Sutmiholjska Beach

A tiny pebbly beach with deep water and some facilities. It’s about halfway between Saplunara and Mljet National Park.

Scenic drive through Mljet

There’s a two-lane paved road running through Mljet, and it’s a nice scenic drive. Driving from the west to the east took us about an hour, but with all the great views it seemed even less. It’s green, green and green, and views of small islets and bays from above.

We definitely recommend exploring Mljet by car, anyway. Either arrive by car or rent one at the ferry port. Scheduled buses travel just once or twice a day.

Compare rental car rates here!

Best time to visit

We visited Mljet in the first week of September, and September is actually our favorite time to visit Croatia. It’s already after high season (July and August), but you still have a high chance for nice beach weather. Beaches in Croatia, especially in Southern Dalmatia, can get very crowded in July and August. Try to reach the water without stepping onto some else’s towel on the beach. It won’t be an easy task – that crowded!

June can also be a great time to visit, just before the busiest period, but the sea will be colder than in September. We don’t really recommend visiting before June or after September. Ferry lines operate on a limited schedule, many attractions are closed or simply not that enjoyable, because the weather is cool, rainy and windy. Mljet is a summer destination.

Where to stay?

Mljet is a small island with limited accommodation, so you better book it in time. We stayed in Polače, which is one of the largest settlements on the island, and it’s popular because of its proximity to Mljet National Park. Pomena is right at the entrance of the national park. Hotel Odisej is conveniently located at the beach of Pomena.

In the central region of Mljet there’s Babino Polje and Sobra. In the south there are small villages, like Saplunara or Maranovići. But if you have a car, your exact location doesn’t matter that much, because the island is quite small.

Mljet doesn’t have luxury hotels, but if you’re after a unique stay, choose Villa Mirosa. It’s an elegant bed and breakfast villa in Saplunara, with a private beachfront, an outdoor swimming pool and sun terrace. There are several rooms, some with sea views.

How to get to Mljet Island?

Mljet is a “medium difficulty” island in terms of access. Some Croatian islands are connected to the mainland by bridge, and they are the easiest to get to: Krk, Pag and Vir islands. Some islands are connected to the mainland by direct ferry lines – like Cres, Korčula, Hvar, Brač, Vis, Rab or Mljet. You need to check the ferry schedule (maybe even buy the tickets) in advance, and it adds to the cost of your trip, ferries are not cheap. (The most difficult islands to reach are the ones that are not connected to the mainland by ferry, like the Kornati or Brijuni islands.)

So Mljet has regular ferry connections with the Peljesac Peninsula and Dubrovnik, and there are three ferry ports on the island: Polace, Pomena (the main port), and Sobra. Both car ferry and passenger ferry are possible options. Check the schedule and prices on the official page of Jadrolinija ferry service. We took the ferry from Prapratno (Pelješac peninsula) to Sobra (small port on Mljet) which was a 40 minutes long journey.

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